# w engine



## م.محمود جمال (16 أبريل 2009)




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## م.محمود جمال (16 أبريل 2009)




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## م.محمود جمال (16 أبريل 2009)




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## م.محمود جمال (16 أبريل 2009)




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## م.محمود جمال (16 أبريل 2009)

351 Windsor Engine Swap 

This page will be dedicated to the installation of a 1974 351W and automatic transmission into my 1964 F100. I will try to show each step as I go and list the parts, suppliers, and tools used to accomplish this. 

Installing a timing set 
This is the donor vehicle I am using. A 1974 Mercury Montego Mx. The engine had a stripped timing gear which I replaced. The first order of business was to remove the timing cover and related componets. After getting down to the chain and gears. I needed to rotate the cam and crankshaft to the proper positions. First, I removed the cam gear and installed the cambolt back into the cam and rotated the cam forward until the valves on the #1 cylinder were closed. Then I rotated the crankshaft until I felt the compression stroke through the spark plug hole. I then installed both gears minus the chain to make sure the timing marks are lined up. After tweaking the alignment just a little bit, I removed both gears and added the chain. Once installed, I rotated the engine by hand a couple of times to make sure the marks would re-align each time. 

Now that the engine is running, I need to make sure it's in good shape. I purchased a compression tester at my local auto parts store and tested each cylinder. To start this process, you'll need to run the engine a few minutes to operating temperature then remove all sparkplugs, remove the coil wire from the distributor cap and tie open the throttle plate on the carb. Install the tester in the sparkplug hole making sure it is sealing the cylinder. Crank the engine over about four times noting the needle movement . The pressure should increase with each revoultion. If not, you'll need to add about three shots of engine oil into each cylinder before testing. Record each cylinders pressure for comparison. No cylinder should be lower than 75% of the highest reading. Mine were high 160 and low 145 giving a total difference of only 10%. 

Installing an Intake manifold 
While I was under the hood of the donor vehicle, I decided to spruce up the engine compartment a little bit. I ordered an intake manifold, carb, valve covers, ? and an air cleaner. Man, what a difference. 

Replacing an intake is a really simple job if you take your time. Start by marking every electrical connection, vacuum line and component location. This will insure correct reinstallment later. Remove the cables on your battery, drain the engine block and radiator (you can do both of these just by removing the lower radiator hose) so you keep the water out of the engine. Removing the distributor isn't neseccary but it will help. Remove the distributor cap, mark the position of the rotor in relation to the distributor body and then mark the housing and block both near the base. This will make sure you realign everything during the install later. Remove the aircleaner, carb, valve covers, thermostat housing, and all vacuum and electrical connections. You should now be looking at a bare intake manifold. Get yourself a stiff brush and a can of degreaser (preferably a non-toxic type like Fresh Force Citrus cleaner) and clean the edges of the intake to block area. This will keep trash out of the engine. Don't forget the front and rear of the manifold block area as well. 
Unbolt the intake by removing the 16 bolts along each edge of the manifold. Insert a thin screwdriver between the block and manifold from the front of the engine where the distributor is located. Gently pry upwards until the seal is broken. Once done, you can lift the manifold off of the engine. Now comes the hard part. Go ahead and stuff two paper towels (do not tear apart) into each hole until they are below the mounting surface. Lay some shop rags down in the valley and tuck them up under the edges of the heads to catch all of the debris. Make sure you cover all of the valley. Take your favorite scraper (I use a sharpened 3/4" wood chisel) and clean the mounting surfaces really good. Once all of the old gasket material, sealer, and carbon are removed, you need to vacuum out the openings in the heads. If you don't have a shop vac, pull gently on your rags to remove them. The debris will fall into the rags in the valley. Remove the rags in the valley by folding them into themselves keeping the debris out of the engine. 

Once your engine is clean, you are ready to install the manifold. How well you pay attention to detail now will determine your success. I used RTV red for the front and rear manifold seals since it withstands temps up to 650 degrees. These gaskets usually blow out or leak anyway and RTV will stay put. Start by extruding a thick 1/4" bead along the front and rear lips of the block and along each head to block joint. Now apply a thin uniform bead around each water port at the front and rear of each head. Be sure to go around each bolt hole as well. Let this set about 10 minutes before installing the manifold. Take your gaskets and spray both sides with Permatex gasket sealer. This will seal the gasket as well as make it stay where you put it while installing the manifold. After a couple of minutes, lay the gaskets onto the head surfaces making sure to align the slots with the tabs of the head gaskets protruding from under the heads. Gently lay the manifold on the block. Make sure you line up the bolt holes with very little movement of the manifold. Install the 12 bolts required to hold down the manifold (Edelbrock eliminated 2 bolts from each side)and snug them by hand. Adjust your torque wrench to 15 ft/pounds and start tightening the bolts down. Follow the sequence shown in the diagram until all bolts are done. Now re-adjust your torque wrench to 25 ft/pounds and retighten the bolts. Keep following the diagram until ALL bolts are torqued. You may have to do this about four times until done. 

Your done!!! Reinstall your carb, valve covers, vacuum lines, and elecrical connections. Assuming you are going back with stock components, this should be easy since we marked all of lines and wires before we started. Run your engine after letting the sealers cure overnight.


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## م.محمود جمال (16 أبريل 2009)




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## م.محمود جمال (16 أبريل 2009)




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## م.محمود جمال (16 أبريل 2009)




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## م.محمود جمال (16 أبريل 2009)




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